As we move into the colder months, it's no surprise that I've received a flood of questions about dry, chapped lips—a common struggle this time of year. With cooler, drier air and indoor heating, our lips can lose moisture quickly, leaving them cracked, sore, and in need of extra care. I’m going to break down the science behind why our lips get so dry, share tips on what to do (and what to avoid) to heal and protect them, along with some product recommendations that make a real difference. Plus, if you’re looking for a deeper dive, I’ve linked a detailed YouTube video at the end where I cover everything you need to know!

Why Do My Lips Get Dry?

There are so many different reasons why you may experience dry, cracked, or peeling lips. One of the main reasons is that the lips do not have sebaceous glands. Our sebaceous glands help produce oil to keep the skin from drying out. During the colder months, you may experience chapped lips more often because the lips do not have a way to maintain hydration. 

The skin on the lips is also much thinner than the face. There are roughly 5-7 layers of skin on the lips with the outermost layer being very thin and susceptible to environmental irritation caused by foods, sun damage, or certain ingredients.

You may also notice irritation, redness, or even small cracks around the corners of your mouth, especially if you have braces, wear a mouthguard, or frequently lick your lips. This condition, known as angular cheilitis, occurs when saliva collects in the corners of the mouth and creates a moist environment where yeast or bacteria can thrive. People with braces or mouthguards are particularly prone to this issue because these appliances can alter how the lips rest together, trapping saliva more easily. The irritation from angular cheilitis can be uncomfortable, making it painful to open your mouth fully, but typically can be managed with proper care and moisture-balancing products. In some cases, antifungal or antibacterial creams may be needed. If the irritation persists it’s best to reach out to your dermatologist.

Do’s and Don’ts For Dry Lips

1. Avoid licking your lips. 

I know, this can be a tough habit to break, especially when your lips feel dry and uncomfortable. While licking may seem like it provides a little bit of moisture, it’s actually a short-lived fix that leads to more irritation. Saliva contains enzymes meant to aid in digestion, which, when applied repeatedly to the thin and delicate lip skin, starts to break down the skin’s natural barrier. Our skin barrier is essential for keeping moisture in and irritants out, so when it’s compromised, the lips become even more prone to dryness, redness, and inflammation. Over time, this can cause a vicious cycle of licking, drying, and irritation. In extreme cases, repeated saliva exposure can even lead to small cracks or fissures, which ultimately lead to infection. So, while it may take some effort, resisting the urge to lick your lips is essential to keep them healthy and comfortable during colder months.

2. Use an ointment or balm

Lip balms are designed to nourish and moisturize the lips by preventing water loss and protecting the lip mucosa, providing relief for dry, chapped lips. Among these, Vaseline is one of the safest options for lip care. Vaseline acts as an occlusive, preventing transepidermal water loss and protecting the delicate skin on the lips, allowing it to self-repair. Other products, such as Aquaphor and Mana creams, are equally effective. When choosing lip care, look for ointments, as they tend to be more occlusive and provide better protection.

A good lip balm should protect against environmental stressors such as cold, wind, low humidity, and irritating substances. Their consistency should help lock in moisture by reducing water loss. The formula should support the skin barrier, nourish the mucosa, and be free of irritating substances. Ideally, it should also have SPF protection because the lip mucosa is thin and more prone to sun damage from UV rays. Additionally, the shine from lip balms can amplify UV radiation, intensifying its effects and causing more damage.  Using shiny balms on the lips in the sun is similar to lying out with baby oil, which increases the risk of damage

3. Avoid lip scrubs

Chapped lips are already dry and fragile and because the skin on the lips is thin, it takes longer to heal. The abrasive action of scrubs can strip away the natural oils that protect your lips, worsening dryness and even causing micro-tears. 

Scrubbing can also lead to inflammation and irritation, leaving the lips more sore and vulnerable to environmental factors such as wind, cold, and UV damage. Scrubs interrupt the natural healing process, delaying recovery, and sometimes leading to infections if the skin barrier is disrupted.

4. Check your ingredients

Lip balms should be simple–less is more when it comes to healing chapped lips. If your lips are dry or chapped, it’s best to avoid products with fragrances and dyes as these can cause sensitization and irritation, ultimately making dry lips worse. 

• Petroleum jelly is one of the safest ingredients used in lip products as it has almost no potential to cause irritation or allergic reactions.  It’s also very effective at holding moisture in, protecting the lips, and healing chapped lips. 

• Shea butter is a natural fat that helps hold onto water, nourish, and moisturize the lips.

• Zinc Oxide is a mineral-based sunscreen ingredient that’s also a skin protectant and has anti-inflammatory qualities. 

• Lanolin is a type of wax that’s also great at reducing water loss by up to 30% according to a study in Clinical Medicine and Research.  Although it has great moisturizing qualities, there’s a low percentage of people that may have a sensitivity to lanolin.

• Propolis is another ingredient that’s soothing and helps heal chapped or irritated lips. It’s a picture of natural oils and fats that nourish and moisturize the lips. A small percentage of people are sensitive to propolis so be cautious with lip balms containing this ingredient if you have sensitive skin.
• Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that helps repair damaged lip mucosa and moisturizes.

This is the best time to apply your lip balms or ointments uninterrupted. What I’ve found to be helpful for dry, cracked lips is using 5% lactic acid and Cerave Healing Balm. Before bed, I apply the AmLactin 5% lactic acid with a Q-tip and then I seal it in with the Cerave Healing Balm. This helps gently exfoliate the lips while repairing the skin barrier overnight. You can use Aquaphor, Vaseline, or any petroleum jelly product as your second step.You can also use a product like Soothe HC, an anti-inflammatory medicated cream, up to 3 times a day in place of lactic acid for soothing redness, irritation, and inflammation.

In summary, caring for dry, cracked lips involves choosing simple, effective products like Vaseline, Aquaphor, or Mana creams that provide lasting hydration and protection. Opt for ointments for their occlusive properties and avoid products with fragrances and dyes to prevent irritation. Remember to protect your lips from UV damage, as shiny balms can magnify the sun’s effects. With the right care and attention, you can soothe and heal your lips, keeping them healthy and hydrated.

Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:

• Vaseline lip Care
• Aquaphor healing balm (has an SPF one as well)
• Cerave Healing balm a non-greasy formula hydrates and soothes very dry skin. It also temporarily protects and helps relieve chafed, chapped, or cracked skin.
• Lanolips
• AmLactin
• Soothe HC an anti-inflammatory medicated cream formulated to improve irritation, rashes, itchiness, and skin inflammation.
• Pout Plump30: Plump, protect, and perfect your pout with our SPF 30 lip plumper. Gentle, hydrating ingredients help achieve fuller, youthful-looking lips