Mastering the Art of Self Tan

Posted by Azadeh Shirazi MD on

The summer sun may have set until next year, but your glow can shine on. Self-tanning is the perfect way to maintain that sun-kissed radiance year-round. I love using self-tanner to achieve a luminous look without exposing my skin to the harmful effects of UV rays. Before we dive into how to get the perfect tan, let’s clear up some common myths about self-tanning.

Myths About Self-Tanning

All self tan is orange: The product’s formulation isn’t the only factor that determines the final color. Doing your research and selecting a shade that complements your undertones will help you achieve a natural-looking glow.

Self tan is unsafe: The process of self tanning only penetrates the top layer of dead skin cells. When dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is introduced it triggers a chemical reaction with these cells, darkening them to create a tanned appearance. 

You need a base tan to self tan: Self-tanning is an excellent way to avoid UV exposure and lower the risk of skin cancer. These products are designed to mimic the skin’s bronzed glow, so there's no need for sunbathing before you self-tan.

Types of Self Tan

Foam

Foam self-tanners offer multiple benefits that make them a top choice over lotions and gels. Their quick-drying formula cuts down on wait time before dressing, while the lightweight texture ensures even coverage, reducing the risk of streaks. Buildable and customizable, foam self-tanners allow you to achieve a gradual, natural-looking tan without leaving a sticky residue. They're perfect for tricky areas like elbows and knees and are often formulated for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Plus, foam self-tanners are typically less greasy, providing a comfortable, hassle-free tanning experience.

Lotions

Lotion self-tanners provide numerous benefits, making them a top choice for a flawless glow. Infused with moisturizing ingredients, they help keep your skin hydrated, ensuring a smooth and even tan. Their easy application process is perfect for those who prefer a traditional, hands-on approach. Lotion self-tanners are often gentle on sensitive skin and offer a gradual, buildable tan, allowing you to customize your color over time. Their spreadable texture is ideal for evenly covering large areas like legs and arms, while offering control to prevent over-application. Additionally, lotions are generally more budget-friendly than foams, gels, or drops, making them an affordable option for achieving a radiant, sun-kissed look.

Gel 

Gel self-tanners offer several benefits that make them a great choice for achieving a sun-kissed glow. Their quick absorption lets you get dressed sooner without leaving any sticky residue. With a non-greasy, lightweight finish, gels are perfect for those who prefer a lighter feel over heavier lotions. The water-based formula provides a refreshing, cooling sensation, especially in warm weather. Ideal for oily or acne-prone skin, gel self-tanners dry quickly, minimizing transfer to clothing or bedding. They are also buildable, allowing you to layer for a deeper tan without over-applying. With a lighter scent compared to other self-tanners, gels offer a more pleasant experience, and their clear or lightly tinted formula helps you monitor your tan’s development. Suitable for various skin types, including sensitive skin, gel self-tanners are versatile and effective.

Drops

Self-tanner drops offer unmatched versatility and control for achieving your perfect tan. By adjusting the number of drops mixed into your moisturizer or serum, you can precisely customize the depth of your color. This flexibility allows you to easily incorporate the drops into your existing skincare routine, avoiding the heavy feel that some lotions or gels might have. The lightweight formula blends seamlessly with other products, ensuring a smooth, streak-free tan as it spreads evenly across the skin. Suitable for both face and body, self-tanner drops offer flexible tanning options, from a subtle glow to a deep bronze. Easy to use and effortlessly integrated into your daily skincare routine, these drops are a convenient choice for personalized, radiant results.

Sprays/Mists

Spray self-tanners are an efficient option for achieving a flawless tan, as they quickly and evenly cover large areas with a fine mist, making the application process convenient and less time-consuming. Many sprays feature adjustable nozzles for precise application, allowing you to easily target specific areas. Additionally, sprays are more hygienic, reducing the risk of bacteria transfer, and their efficient use conserves product, making them economical for touch-ups and maintaining a consistent tan.

Pads

Self-tan face pads offer a range of benefits for achieving a flawless tan. Pre-soaked with a self-tanning solution, these pads provide a mess-free, precise application, making them ideal for sensitive areas like the face, neck, and décolletage. Their compact, portable design is perfect for travel and on-the-go touch-ups, while the consistent dosage ensures even coverage and reduces the risk of streaking. The soft texture of the pad blends the tanner seamlessly for a natural look. Additionally, face pads are quick-drying, hygienic, and generally have a lighter scent, making them a convenient and pleasant choice for both beginners and experienced users.

Applicators 

To achieve a flawless self-tan, choosing the right applicator is key. Tanning mitts are excellent for spreading self-tanner evenly and preventing streaks due to their velvety texture. For precise application, tanning brushes and small face brushes offer controlled coverage in delicate areas. Tanning sponges and pads provide convenience and mess-free application, with pads being especially handy for on the go use. Tanning rollers are effective for reaching hard-to-access spots like the back. Less common but effective options include tanning wands with sponge or brush heads and self-tan applicator brushes with retractable heads for detailed work. Exfoliating gloves are essential for prepping the skin, ensuring a smoother, more even tan. While you can use your hand to apply self-tanner, using a compatible applicator will help achieve a streak-free, radiant finish.

Tanning Process

Before Application

A long-lasting, even self-tan starts with well-exfoliated skin. A week before tanning, I use Clarify Pads or The One spray on my elbows, knees, and back. The day before, I use a physical exfoliator in the shower and shave for the smoothest results. Shaving after tanning can cause the tan to fade faster, requiring more frequent reapplications. Before you begin, make sure to rinse off any product residue and ensure your skin is completely dry. Immediately before applying I will apply lotion to areas I do not want the product to collect: 

  • Face
  • Knuckles 
  • Nail beds/ cuticles
  • Wrists 
  • Elbows 
  • Knees 
  • Armpits
  • Bottom of feet

During Application

To apply self-tanner effectively, use large swiping motions to distribute the product and small circular motions to blend it into an even, streak-free layer. I start from the bottom up, beginning with my lower body and legs. I leave the tops of my feet and knees for last before moving to my back and shoulders. Since I need to move my arms to reach my back, I finish them after my abs and chest. Once my arms are done, I go back to buff the tops of my feet, knees, and elbows. Finally, I tan my face. Though I typically avoid tanning my face, I use a pea-sized amount during winter for a glow boost, applying it with my mitt from the perimeter of my face inward. 

After Application 

After tanning, allow the tan to develop for the full time specified by the product. When showering, use a mild cleanser and avoid shaving. Opt for shorter, cooler showers to prevent skin from drying out. To maintain a long-lasting tan, keep your skin well-moisturized. Hydrated skin is essential for preserving your radiant, glowing look.

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MEET THE DOCTOR BEHIND IT ALL

Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, MD is a Board-Certified Dermatologist.

Specializing in medical, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology, Dr. Shirazi received her undergraduate and medical degrees from the University Of Kentucky College of Medicine. After doing a Research Fellowship at Harvard Medical School at the Wellman Center for Photomedicine, she completed her residency training in Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery at the prestigious Mayo Clinic in addition to completing her training in dermatology and cosmetic surgery at the University of California San Diego.

She has received multiple research scholarships from iconic institutions including Harvard University and the University Of Texas Southwestern Medical Center and has several peer-reviewed publications to her name.