The key to an effective skincare routine isn’t using everything, it’s using the right thing for your skin type and concerns. Many of the questions I frequently receive from my audience revolve around the confusion that may come when trying to incorporate actives, “Can you mix retinol with vitamin C? Should you apply acids in the morning or at night?.” The right actives, used at the right time, can transform your skin. The wrong ones, used incorrectly, can lead to irritation, breakouts, and may even damage your skin barrier. So let’s dive into some of your commonly asked questions about active ingredients and debunk the common myths surrounding them.

What Are Active Ingredients?

Active ingredients are the key players in your skincare products that directly target and address specific skin concerns. They are scientifically proven to deliver measurable results, whether it’s reducing fine lines, brightening hyperpigmentation, controlling acne, or improving hydration. Unlike basic hydrators or emollients, these ingredients work on deeper layers of the skin to stimulate cell renewal, correct damage, and enhance skin health. Some common active ingredients you may have already heard of are:

• L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

• Retinol

• Hyaluronic Acid

• Glycolic Acid

• Salicylic Acid

• BHA’s & AHA’s

When Should I Use Actives?

Some actives will provide more benefits to your skin most during the day, while other ingredients are best used only at night due to their potential to increase sun sensitivity or become unstable in sunlight. I typically say that your daytime skincare routine should be the defense, focusing on protecting, strengthening, and hydrating your skin, while your nighttime routine should be the offense working hard on repairing, renewing, and replenishing your skin.

Here is a quick guide for the best time of day to use specific actives and why:

Day-Time Actives:

• Vitamin C - protects against free radical damage, boosts sun protection

• SPF - Essential for protecting against UVA/UVB damage, premature aging, and hyperpigmentation

• Caffeine -  Reduces puffiness and brightens the under-eye area by constricting blood vessels 

• Green Tea Extract - A natural antioxidant that soothes inflammation, reduces redness, and enhances sun protection

Night Time Actives:

• Retinoids (Retinol, Retinal, Tretinoin, Adapalene) - Boosts collagen production, accelerates cell turnover, reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and acne. Can make the skin more photosensitive.

• AHAs & BHAs (Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid) - Exfoliate dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve texture. Can make the skin more photosensitive.

Will Using Actives Cause Purging?

Not all actives cause purging. Typically, the only ingredients that cause purging are the ones that increase cell turnover (like retinoids and exfoliating acids). These may trigger temporary breakouts. If irritation persists for more than 6 weeks, it’s likely not purging—it’s a reaction.

 Can You Mix Active Ingredients?

There are many misconceptions on this question because skincare is not one size fits all. Some skin types may be able to tolerate layering certain actives while others may benefit more from simplicity. My general rule of thumb is if you are introducing actives, start slowly and observe how your skin reacts before adding more. Here are a few combinations I would not recommend as a dermatologist:

1. Benzoyl Peroxide + Retinol (Deactivates retinol and increases dryness)

2. Retinol + AHAs/BHAs (Too harsh for most skin types and can compromise the skin barrier)

3. Benzoyl Peroxide + Vitamin C (Causes skin irritation and discoloration)

4. Niacinamide + Glycolic or Lactic Acid: (Can reduce the efficacy of niacinamide due to pH requirements)

Can I Use Actives If I Have Sensitive Skin?

Yes, sensitive skin can still benefit from actives when introduced gradually. Many of my patients come to me and say, “Well, I can’t use retinol, my skin is too sensitive.” But the truth is, most people can use actives, including retinol, with the right approach. Sensitivity doesn’t mean you have to avoid powerful ingredients altogether, it just means you need to introduce them strategically. That’s why I developed techniques like Retinol Staging™, designed to help even the most sensitive skin gradually adapt to retinoids without excessive irritation. By adjusting frequency, layering with barrier-supporting ingredients, and selecting the right formulation, sensitive skin can still benefit from actives like retinol, AHAs, and vitamin C. It’s not about avoiding actives, it’s about using them in a way that works best with your unique skin needs.

Still have questions? Leave me a comment below or send me a DM on Instagram (@skinbydrazi). I love to hear from you.