Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient in skincare, renowned for boosting cell turnover, reducing signs of aging, and improving skin texture. Its age-defying effects make it a favorite among dermatologists and skincare enthusiasts. However, for those with sensitive skin, using retinol can cause irritation, dryness, and flakiness—especially if the skin barrier is compromised. Many of my patients struggle with these side effects. But don't worry, there are effective ways to incorporate retinol into your routine without causing irritation, even if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
How do I incorporate retinol into my skincare routine?
Retinol is most effective when used as part of your evening skincare routine. If your skin tolerates retinol well, it should be applied as the treatment step, followed by a moisturizer to lock in hydration. To maximize results and minimize irritation, I always tell my patients to follow this skincare approach: Cleanse, Treat, Protect. This ensures your skin stays balanced while benefiting from retinol's powerful anti-aging properties.
People with sensitive skin can use retinol successfully but it’s more challenging and the risk of irritation is higher because those with sensitive skin already have a weak skin barrier. If doing so, people with sensitive skin should start low and go slow. Start with a low concentration of retinol, applying it every other night to start, and avoid other actives, just stick with a gentle cleanser and sensitive skin moisturizer.
I also recommend Retinol Staging™, a technique I teach all my patients particularly when starting to reduce potential side effects while maximizing the benefits of retinoids. I have them break up their routine into two stages:
Stage 1: Cleanse and moisturize early in the evening and wait at least 2 hours.
Stage 2: Before bed, apply retinol on its own.
Your skin is better prepared to receive powerful skincare actives like retinol when it's well hydrated. Unlike the “Retinol Sandwiching” method, this technique doesn’t reduce the effectiveness of the retinol. By allowing your moisturizer to fully absorb first, your skin’s moisture barrier is optimized, ensuring that retinol is applied on its own for maximum benefit.
Why is retinol irritating?
Retinols accelerate the shedding of old skin cells and stimulate the production of new ones, boosting cellular renewal. While this process enhances skin turnover, it can also disrupt the natural skin barrier in some individuals, leading to dryness, flakiness, and irritation—especially for beginners. Retinols can also enhance the absorption and penetration of other skincare actives making the combination of actives more powerful and potentially more irritating. When incorporating retinols into your skincare routine, it's important to consider all the products you’re using to avoid irritating your skin.
What do you need to look for in a formula to ensure it’s gentle enough for sensitive skin?
Look for encapsulated retinol formulations that utilize slow-release technology. This ensures a gradual release of retinol into your skin, minimizing the risk of irritation while maximizing effectiveness. Combining retinols with other ingredients that help support the skin barrier such as ceramides, glycerin, or calming ingredients such as licorice root makes a difference as formulation is key. I also find combining OTC retinol with bakuchiol not only enhances the efficacy but also reduces the risk of irritation.
What are some alternatives to retinol if you’re super sensitive and can’t tolerate it?
Other alternatives are Bakuchiol or mild exfoliating acids such as azelaic acid.
Additional Retinol Tips:
When starting a retinol, it’s important that you minimize other products in your skincare routine. Limit the use of exfoliants and other actives, such as glycolic or salicylic acid, highly concentrated vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, or toners until your skin adapts to the retinol. Using fewer products allows your skin to acclimate more effectively. Focus on using a gentle cleanser, an SPF day cream, and a supportive moisturizer like Intense Recovery Complex, specifically formulated to support and repair the skin barrier.
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
Lift + Renew is formulated with innovative slow-release technology. This unique formulation ensures a gradual release of retinol into your skin, minimizing the risk of irritation while maximizing effectiveness. Combining licorice root with retinol and bakuchiol boosts the effects by enhancing skin brightness while reducing inflammation for a radiant complexion. Glycerin works to hydrate and lock in moisture, supporting the skin barrier and maintaining skin hydration.
RoC RETINOL CORREXION® LINE SMOOTHING MAX HYDRATION CREAM
Provides long lasting hydration to maintain the skin barrier. Formulated in a nourishing cream base with Hyaluronic Acid making the skin feel soft and supple. A favorite among my clients even those with sensitive skin types.
