Retinol is one of the most powerful and well-researched skincare ingredients, but it’s also one of the most misunderstood. From its ability to boost collagen production and smooth fine lines to its role in preventing acne and evening out skin tone, retinol is a true multitasker in any skincare routine. However, finding the best way to incorporate it into your routine for maximum benefits—without unnecessary irritation— can be hard. Here are some of the most commonly asked questions I receive from you guys, with easy ways to approach retinol use!

How does retinol work?

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is a powerhouse ingredient that interacts with specific receptors in the skin called retinoic acid receptors. When retinol is absorbed, it undergoes a conversion process into retinoic acid, the most active form which then binds to these receptors, triggering a cascade of magical benefits at the cellular level. This process enhances skin cell turnover, preventing clogged pores and reducing the formation of acne. Retinol also stimulates collagen and hyaluronic acid production, boosts skin quality and circulation, helping to improve skin texture, minimize fine lines, and fade hyperpigmentation. Additionally, it protects existing collagen from breakdown and promotes overall skin renewal, making it a key ingredient for both anti-aging and acne prevention.

What should someone look for in a retinol cream?

When choosing a retinol cream, it's important to consider the formulation, concentration, and additional ingredients. Retinol comes in various strengths, typically ranging from 0.25% to 1%, with higher percentages offering more potent effects but also carrying a greater risk of irritation. Look for innovative formulations such as slow release technology, delivering retinol gradually to minimize irritation while maximizing its effectiveness. If you have sensitive skin, starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing as your skin adjusts is ideal. 

How can you find the right retinol for your skin type?

The ideal retinol product depends on your skin type and how much your skin can tolerate.

Sensitive skin: Opt for a low-strength retinol (0.25%) or a retinol alternative like bakuchiol. A cream-based formula with hydrating ingredients can help minimize irritation.

Oily or acne-prone skin: A mid-strength retinol (0.5%) in a lightweight gel or serum formulation can help regulate oil production and prevent breakouts.

Normal to dry skin: A richer cream-based retinol with hydrating components like squalane or glycerin will provide both exfoliation and moisture.

Mature skin: A higher-strength retinol (0.5%–1%) or a prescription retinoid like tretinoin may be more effective for addressing fine lines, loss of elasticity, and uneven skin tone.

At what point in the skincare routine should you apply retinol? Should you apply morning, night, or both?

Retinol should always be applied at night, as exposure to sunlight can deactivate it. For the best results, you have to use it consistently, at least 5x a week to see skin improvement. It often causes irritation, leading many to either give up or use it inconsistently, only once or twice a week which is not enough for real results. To maximize its benefits while minimizing irritation, I’ve developed a patented technique called Retinol Staging™. Break up your skincare routine into 2 "stages." An early evening stage (between 5–8 PM) where you cleanse and moisturize right after. Then wait until later in the evening at bedtime (9pm +) to apply retinol on its own without any other products. Instead of applying retinol immediately after cleansing, start by moisturizing earlier in the evening (between 5–8 PM) to strengthen your skin barrier. Then, apply retinol later on at bedtime (9 PM or later) for optimal absorption. This method restores and strengthens your skin barrier, allowing it to better receive and absorb the retinol on its own. Unlike retinol sandwiching, Retinol Staging™ maximizes skin hydration, and reduces irritation.

For best results, begin by using retinol every other night to build tolerance. And don’t forget—always apply sunscreen during the day to protect your skin!

Do you have any other thoughts on retinol creams that you think readers should know?

One of the biggest misconceptions about retinol is that it should be avoided in the summer. While retinol can increase sun sensitivity, it’s completely safe to use year-round as long as you apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily and take additional protective measures like wearing a hat.

Another myth is retinol makes the skin thinner, but that can't be further from the truth. Retinol actually thickens your dermis. 

A common mistake I see is incorporating retinol alongside too many active ingredients, such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, vitamin C, or niacinamide. This can overwhelm the skin, leading to irritation, dryness, and even compromised barrier function. When starting a retinol regimen, it’s best to keep the rest of your routine simple; stick to a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturizer, and sunscreen during the day. Once your skin has adjusted, you can slowly introduce other active ingredients as needed.

For more helpful information on how to use retinol products, check out my detailed YouTube videos over this topic!