Why Do I Have Body Odor?
Most people see body odor and sweat as synonymous things, but sweat is actually odorless. Body odor is a by-product of bacteria breaking down sweat. Other factors can contribute to body odor, such as diet, hormonal changes, certain medical conditions, and genetics.
What Is The Difference Between Deodorants and Antipersperants?
A study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found both deodorants and antiperspirants to be effective at controlling body odor. There’s a notable distinction between deodorants and antiperspirants even though they serve the same purpose - to stop body odor.
Deodorant is a broad term referring to products applied to control body odor. Deodorants mask the smell of body odor usually with fragrances. Many are alcohol based to create a more acidic environment to decrease bacteria causing odors in addition to covering up the smell.
Anti-perspirants are products designed to reduce or stop sweating. They typically come in the form of roll-ons, sticks, sprays, or creams. These products contain active ingredients, most commonly aluminum-based compounds such as aluminum chloride, which work by temporarily blocking the sweat glands. It’s best to apply anti-perspirants onto clean, dry skin, preferably at night before bed, which will give the antiperspirant time to activate overnight.
Here are some of my favorite deodorants:
Dove Clinical Strength: Most appropriate for those with active sweat glands, particularly during the reproductive years with the hormones causing greater amounts of sweat leading to body odor. This formula is very effective at reducing sweat and eliminating odor from the byproducts of bacteria mixing with a rich supply of sweat as deodorants don’t reduce sweating.
Vanicream Aluminum Free: A dermatologist favorite for sensitive skin types, this aluminum-free formula comes in a gel form that dries without leaving a residue. It’s also fragrance free and only contains five ingredients leaving out common chemical irritants, botanical extracts, and parabens
Vanicream Antiperspirant + Deodorant: They also have a solid formula combining antiperspirant and deodorant with aluminum for those with a need to control sweating.
Necessaire Deodorant Gel: It’s a clear 5% AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and Niacinamide deodorant to reduce odor causing bacteria while also treating hyperpigmentation and smoothing texture. It dries quickly, it’s not messy or sticky. It’s also free of many irritants such as aluminum, baking soda, synthetic fragrance, PEGs, and parabens
What Ingredients Should I Avoid?
I consider both deodorants and antiperspirants as safe products with a few ingredients to consider:
What Can I Do To Reduce Body Odor?
While sweat itself is virtually odorless, the rapid growth of bacteria that break down the sweat into acids are what cause an unpleasant smell. One of my favorite hacks is using glycolic or salicylic acid to exfoliate dead skin cells which reduces the amount of odor causing bacteria. Glycolic and salicylic acids are not deodorant, they are exfoliants. They do nothing to reduce or absorb sweat.
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that works by breaking the bonds between the outer layer of skin cells, including the dead skin cells, exfoliating them off, boosting cell renewal resulting in a peeling effect that leaves the skin smoother. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that works by penetrating the skin and dissolving the dead skin cells that can clog pores.
Since these acids are anti-bacterial they can help reduce body odor. I'm hesitant in recommending glycolic acid for the delicate under arm skin as it can cause slight irritation. I recommend either salicylic acid or glycolic acid formulas with low concentrations used in a cleanser that you leave on for a few minutes and then rinse off for the safest options. I also recommend formulas like The One Spray or Clairfy Pads.
I have a youtube video dedicated to this topic that you can watch below:
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There are a number of options to treat hyperpigmentation depending on your skin type and the cause of hyperpigmentation. Let’s dive into some of my top tips including prevention and treatment options!
For more tips on treating discoloration, check out my YouTube video below, where we break down different types of discoloration and how to identify them.
Tip #1: Sun Protection
This is the most important step, regardless of skin type and cause. Sun protection and avoidance is the most important method for preventing hyperpigmentation from developing or getting worse. Wearing broad-brimmed hats with a UPF 50+, sunscreen, and staying in the shade are lifestyle habits that reduce your exposure. I recommend using a daily broad-spectrum mineral based tinted SPF product with Iron oxide to minimize UV rays and HEVL (Blue rays) such as HydratintBB SPF 44. Avoiding irritation or inflammation and treating the underlying cause in the first place is really important. Anything that results in “traumatizing” the skin such as heat, rubbing, friction stimulates melanin formation as a response to trauma.
When shopping for over-the-counter products that reduce hyperpigmentation, look for ingredients like Azelaic acid, Arbutin, bearberry, and licorice root. These are natural skin lighteners. Ingredients like Vitamin C, Niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and retinol also help to even out skin tone and lighten hyperpigmentation.
Certain skincare agents like hydroquinone, retinols, azelaic acid, kojic acid, glycolic acid, and Arbutin help reduce melanin and melanocyte activity therefore lightening dark areas. They work by blocking an enzyme called tyrosinase, responsible for making melanin in our skin (pigment). Hydroquinone reduces the number of pigment forming cells in addition to stopping the production of melanin.
Retinols encourage cellular turnover bringing new evenly pigmented cells to the surface delivering a more even skin tone rather than bleaching the skin out.
Another skincare ingredient is Tranexamic Acid. More recently, it’s the new “it” ingredient for Melasma. Some studies suggest that it interferes with UV light’s activation of plasmin which increases the production of melanin pigment. In turn, the interference with UV light helps prevent the production of melanin.
Tip #3: Chemical Peels
Chemical peels help remove the top outer skin layer allowing more even toned skin cells to come to the surface of the skin. Various formulations using alpha or beta hydroxy acids and retinoids are available and are geared towards the cause of hyperpigmentation as well as your individual skin type. For example, TCA-based peels work best for sun damage in lighter skin tones whereas salicylic acid based peels are best for Melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones as it’s the least inflammatory. This is a good in-office treatment that won’t break the bank and has little to no downt-time. Always be sure to see a licensed professional for this type of treatment.
Tip #4: Lasers and Light devices
IPL (Intense pulse light) and BBL (broad based light) are light devices that target melanin in the skin lifting sun spots off the skin. They turn into little coffee grinds that flake off over a few days. These are best for lighter less melanated skin tones. Other lasers such as the V-beam, Excel V, Picosure, and the Alex Laser work similarly by targeting melanin in the skin and selectively removing it.
Non-ablative resurfacing lasers such as the Halo penetrate into the deeper skin layer, the dermis. By delivering microscopic columns of heat, areas of pigmentation are removed and replaced with newer, more even toned skin cells.
However, some lasers can worsen Melasma and pigmentation, particularly in darker skin tones, as the inflammation and heat can trigger melanin worsening hyperpigmentation. You should always see a trained professional when seeking laser treatment options. I always recommend checking the American Society of Dermatologic Surgeons for a trained professional in your area.
If you currently live in the southern California area, you can look into joining our SkinBRIGHT® program at my practice. SkinBRIGHT® brings transformational results to people who are suffering from pigmentation, discoloration, and breakouts, helping them regain confidence and brighten their complexion. You can find more information through this link.
You can learn more on Melasma, sun spots, discoloration, and in-office treatment options by tuning into our More Than A Pretty Face Podcast episode over this topic!
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products
Formulated with natural plant derived skin lighteners including kojic acid, Arbutin, Emblica, and Bearberry along with vitamin C are freshly mixed at the time of order for maximum benefit. Fast-absorbing, easy-to-use pads with the option to add hydroquinone for greater potency. Suitable for all skin types to brighten the skin and lighten hyperpigmentation.
Skinceuticals Vitamin C Ferulic acid Serum
A stable and potent vitamin C serum helps lighten discoloration to brighten your complexion. With powerful antioxidants it also helps repair oxidative damage from UV rays.
Azelaic acid 10% paired with plant derived Arbutin to lighten discoloration and reduce inflammation in a hydrating serum with Hyaluronic acid. Gentle enough for those with sensitive skin and a great option for those who are also prone to other skin conditions such as acne or rosacea. It helps soothe inflammation and gently exfoliates the skin.
Cerave's Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment
An affordable option formulated with a blend of glycolic and lactic acids to promote cellular turnover and licorice root to calm inflammation to help lighten and brighten hyperpigmentation. It’s lightweight yet hydrating suitable for most skin types.
Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Night Serum
A trio of glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids for those who can’t tolerate retinols to help reverse dark spots and fine lines from sun damage. Formulated with plant derived raspberry extract, citric and tartaric acid that work well together in fading hyperpigmentation
]]>1. At-Home Microneedling - NAY
Microneedling helps stimulate the production of collagen by causing micro-injury to the skin. In turn, this causes blood flow to the affected area and generates new, healthy skin cells. However, at-home microneedling devices can increase your risk of infection, scarring, and skin reactions long term. Many of them are derma roller-type devices that enter the skin at any angle as opposed to a specific 90-degree angle. This increases the risk of scarring. At-home microneedling devices also use needles that dull much quicker than a professional tool and over time this can potentially cause skin tears and if used long-term, more scarring. It’s best to see a trained professional for this type of procedure as there are many risks that come with this treatment.
2. At-Home Mani-Pedi Sets - SLEIGH
10/10 recommend. These are the perfect gift sets to give your bestie. Gel nails particularly can be dangerous if you’re consistently going to the salon. The long wavelengths of UV light (UVA) from Gel manicure nail dryers have been proven to damage DNA in our hands, causing mutations in human cells, premature aging, and in severe cases increases the risk of skin cancer on the hands and fingernail beds. Fingerless UV gloves are a good investment for consistent nail salon visits. Gifting a mani/pedi set might just be a safer way to tell your friends and family you love them this holiday season.
A great brand to gift is Olive and June. I love their long-lasting polish and manicure set. For UV Gloves I recommend the Melodie Susie UV Gloves for Gel Nail Lamp
3. At-Home Dermaplaning - NAY
Dermaplaning is an exfoliating hair removal treatment using a blade to scrape off dead skin cells and peach fuzz hair. It can be tricky depending on the device and your skin type. Dermaplaning can cause acne breakouts, redness, and irritation in some skin types and potentially cause nicks and cuts. A safer alternative is using a hair removal device like Flawless Beauty. It’s an effective hair removal treatment that’s easy to use without causing irritation or redness. I’d keep the dermplaning treatments in-office. It’s best to see a trained professional who can determine the best treatment for your specific skin type.
4. At-Home Laser Hair Removal - SLEIGH
Technically at home “lasers” are light-based devices rather than true lasers. At home laser hair removal devices use light-based energy to target hair removal. Laser hair removal targets melanin in the hair follicle root and each pulse of light destroys the hair follicle. Laser hair removal devices are best to maintain your results from in-office laser removal or target unwanted hair growth. Typically, some may temporarily experience a little redness. At home, devices are not as strong as in-office technologies. Office-based lasers are like working out with a personal trainer for 2 hours, whereas at-home devices are similar to taking a 15-minute walk. They offer similar benefits, but take more treatments to see results. Typically I recommend 5-10 sessions for best results, which may not be as dramatic as in-office treatment results.
A great at-home laser hair removal device is the Ulike Laser Hair Removal Devices. They have a large sapphire crystal handpiece with adequate cooling making it safer and more effective. It’s also easy to use with varying degrees of light pulse intensities to suit different skin types.
5. Pore Vacuums - NAY
We’ve all seen these videos on TikTok. These are devices intended to clean out pores and remove blackheads by using a negative-pressure vacuum to suction your skin and pores. Some people consider this a form of pore or facial cleansing. And while those videos may look satisfying, they can often do more harm than good. What's really happening with a pore vacuum is just the removal of superficial debris. Pore vacuums are not great at deep cleansing pores to remove blackheads. The black gunk you see stuck in pores is like cement. They are hard and not easily removed. It’s best to use a product like Clarify Pads with salicylic acid, an oil-soluble exfoliant that can penetrate deep into the pores and loosen up the keratin, debris, and dead cells and remove them more effectively than a pore vacuum. I don’t recommend this in those with sensitive skin as it can leave your skin red, cause bruising, or even damage the superficial skin layer.
6. LED Light Devices - SLEIGH ALL DAY
Yes, x a million. There are many clinical research studies to show the amazing healing effects of LED devices. In the skincare world, they can be beneficial for a wide range of skin concerns like acne, fine lines and wrinkles, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, etc.
Red Light: stimulates collagen production, reduces inflammation - best for promoting anit-aging effects.
Blue Light: anti-bacterial properties, helps control oil productions - best for acne-prone skin.
Green Light: reduces redness, calms the skin - best for Rosacea or Hyperpigmentation
These products make great gifts. Some of my favorite LED devices are:
For more information and more recommendations on at-home devices, check out my Youtube video linked below! Happy Holidays!
]]>What Is Botox?
We know people get botox to diminish fine lines and wrinkles but what is it really? Botox is a neuromodulator, a protein produced by the bacterium clostridium botulinum, but now manufactured in a lab. It is known for its medical and cosmetic applications where it blocks nerve signals from communicating with the muscles it’s injected with, temporarily paralyzing or “relaxing” those specific muscles. This prevents facial muscles from wrinkling up the skin, making your skin appear smoother and tighter. It also helps reduce the appearance of pores, lifts and open up the eyes, treats facial asymmetry, and makes small adjustments to facial structures like the lips and eyebrows. It is commonly used for cosmetic purposes to reduce or eliminate facial wrinkles and fine lines but most of all botox is used for treating medical conditions such as chronic migraines, hyperhidrosis, muscle spasms, bladder disorders, eye muscle conditions, and so much more.
Check out one of our recent More Than A Pretty Face Podcast episodes where we discuss injectables and different brands of Botox.
Does Botox Really Slow Down The Ageing Process?
This is a tricky question to unpack. Botox is not going to slow down the natural aging process in a broader sense. It can however slow down the formation of wrinkles, a common physical sign of aging. With great preventative care, a bi-annual trip to your dermatologist can make you appear quite a bit younger than your stated age. By injecting Botox into the facial muscles responsible for heavier expressions, (crows feet, forehead, etc.) the muscles are temporarily relaxed, they cannot wrinkle the skin, they can pull on the skin, leading to a smoother complexion.
When Is The Best Time To Start Botox?
I see a lot of controversy about starting Botox in your 20’s. There truthfully is nothing wrong with this, It’s not about the toxin itself, it’s more about the frequency, the dosage, and how you maintain the botox injections. If you start botox in your 20’s the odds of developing wrinkles at a younger age is definitely less likely since you are preventing the skin from wrinkling up. But hypothetically, let’s say you start getting significant doses of botox in your early twenties every 3 months. (We’ve previously said this just means you’re temporarily relaxing the muscle to prevent it from wrinkling the skin.) After 10 years of constant injections, you might start to notice signs of muscle atrophy. As they say, if you don’t use it you lose it, and this is why the facial muscles start to thin after constant sessions of botox. In short, it’s okay to start in your 20’s and you’re not going to get muscle atrophy after 4 sessions. Just be sure to take breaks and don’t over do it. In moderation it can be a beneficial preventative treatment to fight the signs of aging.
Can you become resistant to Botox?
Possible, but highly unlikely according to the research.. It’s possible to develop some degree of resistance or a reduced response overtime, and in some people their muscles are so strong that it can take larger doses and multiple sessions to train their muscles. Let’s go into more detail as to possible causes why botox doesn’t work for you:
I have a Youtube video dedicated to this that goes into more detail! Linked below.
What Are The Potential Side Effects?
Before we dive into this question I’ll say it’s imperative to see a trained and experienced healthcare professional as botox injections are more than just beauty treatments, they are still considered medical procedures. You might experience mild pain, bruising, and temporary swelling at the injection site. In very rare cases, people may have an allergic reaction which may look like mild flu symptoms, a rash, or itching. Botox is generally safe and fortunately the results are temporary so there are no long term side effects. So if you’re thinking about taking the leap, just relax and find a trusted professional who knows what they’re doing. Read up on the reviews!
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How Is Hyaluronic Acid Different From Other Moisturizing Agents?
No other ingredient comes close to binding and holding water, as Hyaluronic acid has the ability to attract and bind up to 1000 times its weight in water. It’s a hydrator and not a moisturizer as it doesn’t have occlusive properties to seal in the hydration.
What Particular Skin Types Or Conditions Can Benefit Most From Using Hyaluronic Acid?
All skin types can benefit by incorporating skincare products with hyaluronic acid into their routine as it helps improve hydration by infusing cells with water and enhancing our skin’s moisture content. Furthermore, it improves skin flexibility, allowing it to stretch and flex. It also helps plump up skin cells, instantly improving fine lines and wrinkles, and plays a role in wound healing.
In A Typical Skincare Routine, Where Does Hyaluronic Acid Fit In Relation To Other Products?
It’s best formulated into serums and creams. I favor Hyaluronic acid based serums applied to damp skin and sealed in with a moisturizer to maximize its benefits.
For oily skin types, look for a water or gel based hyaluronic acid product, but if you have dry skin look for a cream or oil-based hyaluronic acid products.
I don’t recommend using Hyaluronic acid as a stand-alone product given it’s an ingredients that’s now formulated into so many skincare products. Overusing hyaluronic acid can potentially dry out or irritate some skin types.
Are There Any Ingredients That Pair Exceptionally Well With Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a team player and gets along with everyone. It works well with most skincare ingredients such as Vitamin C, retinol, collagen peptides, caffeine, and azelaic acid.
Choosing the right product can be tricky as different skincare products are formulated with various forms of “hyaluronic acid.” with the most common being a salt form with a lower molecular weight called sodium hyaluronate. The effectiveness and benefits between low molecular weight-HA and Hight Molecular Weight-HA can dictate the price point.
Higher molecular weight HA is what’s found in our skin and in injectable dermal fillers, as it’s best for attracting water, hydrating our dermis, and reducing skin inflammation. The problem is that it can’t get into our dermis if we apply it to the surface of the skin, it just sits on top of the skin. It’s too large to penetrate. So skincare companies break it down, hydrolyzed HA, so that it can better penetrate into the skin. The issue is a high amount of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or hydrolyzed HA can actually cause inflammation and irritation so it’s best to look for products with multiple forms of Hyaluronic acid in a well balanced formula.
Addressing Common Concerns and Misconceptions:
What Are Some Of The Most Common Misconceptions You Hear About Hyaluronic Acid?
Many think it’s an exfoliant because it’s an “acid.” People also think of it as a moisturizer, but it’s a hydrator meaning it simply binds water. You need a moisturizer on top of it to maintain skin hydration and have a “moisturizing effect”
Is There Any Truth To The Belief That Hyaluronic Acid Can Penetrate The Skin?
Hyaluronic acid with a ultra low molecular weight generally less than 300 kDa (20-300kDA) passes through the stratum corneum, the skin’s outer layer, while high molecular weight (1000–1400 kDa) HA is largely impermeable. Larger HA molecules offer hydration only on the very surface of the skin when applied topically.
Potential Side Effects and Precautions:
What Potential Side Effects Should We Be Aware of When Using HA?
Overusing hyaluronic acid can potentially dry out your skin. It’s best to have 1-2 products with HA in your skincare routine, as the more products the more water it needs. HA can start to pull water out of your skin and result in dehydrating your skin cells if it’s over used. It’s important to always apply Hyaluronic acid based products to DAMP skin providing it with water to bind to and just as important to seal it in with a moisturizer.
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
Hydratint BB SPF44: a comprehensive tinted moisturizer with SPF. Mineral based, making it great for sensitive skin and with hyaluronic acid for a hydrating application.
La Roche Posay Hyalu B5 Serum: a dermatologist approved anti-aging serum. Great for plumping and hydrating the skin.
Azelaic10 Serum: A sensitive skin exfoliant. Keeps the skin hydrated while targeting skin concerns like Rosacea, Acne, and Hyperpigmentation.
Cereve Moisturizing Cream: This product is safe for all skin types and can be a great option for those with dryer skin. Dermatologist and sensitive skin approved!
]]>I also have a dedicated youtube video on this topic, check it out below!
The most common cause is aging because as the tissue and muscles weaken around our eyes, the fat pads begin to bulge and descend giving the under eyes a puffy appearance. Genetics also play a role as some people tend to accumulate more fat under the eyes. We see this happen gradually over many years. Puffiness from swelling and fluid retention is another common cause particularly from alcohol, dehydration, crying, allergies, and colds. Other causes include hormonal shifts and imbalances, thyroid, and kidney disease so it’s best to see your doctor if you are experiencing eye bags despite eating healthy and sleeping well.
If it doesn’t happen in a few days then it can’t go away in a few days meaning if you had salty foods or slept poorly you can wake up with under eye bags as a result of swelling and puffiness which in turn can resolve quickly using the right measures. In general it can take 24-72 hours depending on the cause and one’s metabolism. If the cause is structural such as eye bag changes seen with aging over years, then it may require a surgical or in-office procedure.
First I tell my patients to drink 8-12 oz of water upon awakening in the morning to flush out any excess salt and to hydrate your body since it’s been without water overnight. Applying chilled or frozen tools, eye masks, or devices helps temporarily constrict blood vessels and deflate puffiness fast. These can be applied in combination with a lymphatic drainage massage. Stay away from salt, sugar, and alcohol for at least a week to see a big difference in reducing the appearance of under eye bags. You can also use a caffeine based eye gel to soothe inflammation, help with circulation, and narrow leaky blood vessels to reduce swelling, fluid retention, and puffiness. Using a retinol based eye cream like Eyeglow PM can help boost collagen and firm the skin over time. If you suffer from allergies then taking a daily antihistamine like Claritin can also help under eye puffiness and eye bags.
Blepharoplasty: is a surgical procedure where the bulging herniated fat pads are removed from under the eyes and sometimes transferred to areas of fat loss from aging.
EyeGlow® filler: is a non-surgical option, a patented technique I developed using a white opaque filler blend to lift the under eyes, mask eye bags, and brighten the under eyes similar to how white concealer is used to highlight the under eyes. The EyeGlow® white filler also adds support and structure to certain facial ligaments that weaken and sag with age. This helps reduce under eye bags and lasts for many years.
Exilis: using radiofrequency and ultrasound helps tighten the skin and reduce eye bags. There’s no pain or downtime so it’s a great non-invasive option.
Laser Resurfacing: with a CO2 laser can help tighten the skin and improve eye bags.
If you’re curious about some of these procedures and what they may look like, I have an in-office treatment video dedicated to EyeGlow® and Laser Resurfacing. Check those out below!
A few options for at home remedies can be
What Is Collagen?
Collagen is one of the most abundant fibrous proteins in the human body. In simple terms, collagen provides structural support, strength, and elasticity to many tissues and organs, including our skin. Your body makes collagen from the nutrients you absorb, such as Vitamin C, Copper, and Zinc. Although these can be found in food, as your body ages, it struggles to ingest nutrients and process them into collagen.
How Does Collagen Help Your Skin?
Collagen plays a large role in helping your skin maintain firmness and elasticity. It helps stimulate new tissue growth, making new skin creates this youthful appearance. Since your skin is full of all the nutrients it needs, it also appears plump and firm. However, our collagen production naturally decreases with age, causing thinner skin. This ultimately results in wrinkles, sagging, and loss of volume.
Which Products And Treatments Really Work?
Now that we understand why and how collagen is produced for our skin, let’s do a little myth vs. fact checking on what products and treatments are beneficial.
Fact:
Myth:
Next time you’re looking for a collagen boost, remember to check the ingredient list carefully. Be cautious of products that make exaggerated claims about generating collagen. Consider keeping this article as a valuable resource to understand collagen production better!
]]>Checkout my newest Youtube video for more information on this topic, below!
Not all sun rays are created equal
Sun Protection Factor. This number tells you how well the product is going to protect your skin from UVB rays. For example, an SPF30 means it will take 30 times longer to get a sunburn with that product than it will without.
SPF can be categorized into 3 tiers.
-Low Protect <SPF15
-Medium Protection SPF 15 - 29
-High Protection SPF 30 - 50+
Anything above 50 is really going to do the same thing as the high protection spfs. If you apply small amounts of sunscreen, higher SPF numbers like SPF100 is beneficial as you’ll need less product. Nevertheless it doesn’t block 100% of the sun’s rays. It’s important to note that SPF speaks only of UVB protection and not from UVA or HEVL.
General rule of thumb is to use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher to also protect you against UVA rays. Suncare products with mineral blockers and Iron Oxide also offer protection againse HEVL from the sun that comes through windows and visible light from screens and phones. Hydratint BB SPF44 is my favorite broad spectrum sunscreen moisturizer as it offers broad spectrum protection against all forms of light that have the potential to damage the skin leading to discoloration and photo-aging. Plus it hydrates the skin giving you a filter like appearance.
The main difference is mineral sunscreens block UV rays whereas chemical sunscreens absorb them. Mineral SPF creams are physical blockers, they sit on the surface of the skin, forming a barrier to block UV rays from reaching the skin. They use ingredients like Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that tend to be more dense. Chemical sunscreens are like a sponge, they penetrate the skin, absorb the UV rays and convert them into heat before they can cause sun damage. They use ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate. They tend to be more lightweight with a clear finish.
Is Sunscreen Toxic?
Sunscreen is generally considered safe when used as directed. However, some sunscreen products may contain certain ingredients that can potentially cause adverse reactions or have environmental concerns. It's important to be aware of these ingredients and make informed choices when selecting sunscreen. Sunscreen ingredients with potential for concern are:
-Oxybenzone
-Octinoxate
These ingredients are also unsafe for the environment, harmful to the ocean’s reef structures.
Which Type Of Sunscreen Is Best For My Skintype?
I personally prefer mineral based sunscreens over chemical based as they are safer for our skin and the environment. Those with sensitive skin may have reactions to chemical sunscreens as they’re more likely to cause irritation. If you are prone to hyperpigmentation, the heat generated from chemical sunscreen may potentially worsen your condition. Mineral sunscreens are natural and best for sensitive skin types as they’re less irritating, more inert, since they create a barrier on the surface instead of absorbing into the skin. Mineral sunscreens also contain soothing ingredients like Zinc Oxide that are anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory making them most suitable for acne prone skin.
Oily, combination, or normal skin types can benefit from the lightweight and diverse formulations of chemical sunscreens including oil-free or mattifying options. This can be beneficial for individuals with combination skin who may have oilier areas in their T-zone but drier areas on the rest of their face.
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
Hydratint BB SPF44: protects your skin from harmful UV rays while giving you a filter like appearance. Great for a soft summer coverage.
Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen: Broad spectrum SPF40, an oil free formulation that helps hydrate the skin. Clear application, does not leave a white residue with an elegant texture.
UV Clear SPF Powder: perfect on the go mineral powder sunscreen brush for easy reapplication. Protects from UVA/UVB rays. Only contains 4-ingredients making it ideal for even the most sensitive skin types.
UV Defense Spray: This broad spectrum SPF50 sunscreen is lightweight, sweat-resistant, reef safe, and highly effective for active lifestyles and prolonged sun exposure.
EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46: broad spectrum oil-free formula is particularly appealing for those with acne-prone skin as it includes lactic acid, an exfoliant that encourages cell turnover and Niacinamide to reduce breakouts.
]]>What Are Acne Scars?
True acne scars are depressions or irregularities left in the skin from damaged collagen by acne breakouts. These scars vary in their shape and depth and are treated differently. Here is how you can identify them
1. Boxcar Scars:
Characterized by broad depressions on the skin's surface that have well-defined edges; usually round or oval in shape, resembling a boxcar or a saucer. Typically caused by inflammatory acne, such as cystic acne or nodules, which damage the collagen and elastin fibers in the skin.
2. Ice Pick Scars
Deep, narrow, and pitted indentations on the skin's surface that resemble small, round puncture marks made by an ice pick or needle. These scars are typically caused by severe acne and result from the loss of collagen and elastin fibers in the skin during the healing process.
Wave-like undulations or rolling hills on the skin's surface. These scars are caused by damage to the underlying collagen fibers, which results in a tethering effect between the deeper layers of the skin and the surface. As a result, the skin appears uneven and has a wavy or rolling texture.
Treating acne scars involves in-office treatments like subcision, fillers, ablative and nonablative laser resurfacing. Check out my Youtube video below for more depth information over this topic.
What is Post Inflammatory Erythema and How Can I Treat It?
Post inflammatory erythema, also known as PIE, are red or pink stains that appear after a pimple heals. These stains can last for months, sometime up to a year. This is caused by inflammation and damaged capillaries under the skin from cystic acne. Those with lighter skin tones are more likely to have post inflammatory erythema. Treating post inflammatory erythema includes a skincare routine that can help fade the red or pink stains. Retinols are effective ingredients to fade red stains faster found in prescription strength Lift and Renew. If you have sensitive skin or are unable to tolerate retinols, Azelaic acid and arbutin are effective options found in Azelaic10 Serum. It’s important to note that using actives like retinol too often can cause more irritation. Be patient and allow your skin time to adjust to these products. However, if you are not noticing any changes, you may need to see your dermatologist for a more personalized treatment plan including lasers or in office treatments.
What is Hyperpigmentation and How Can I Treat It?
Hyperpigmentation refers to the dark spots that appear on the skin after a pimple heals. They aren’t red or pink, which is why it’s different from post inflammatory erythema. Those with darker skin tones have more melanin therefore more susceptible to hyperpigmentation. The overproduction of melanin is a reaction to the disruption acne causes in our skin. A consistent skincare routine is beneficial for preventing and treating hyperpigmentation. The most effective way to fade hyperpigmentation is to use sun protection as UV rays and visible light contribute to increased melanin production. It’s important to use a mineral based sunscreen with iron oxide such as Hydratint BB SPF44 to reduce exposure to a wide range of UV and visible rays. This 3 in 1 tinted moisturizer hydrates, protects, and offers broad-spectrum coverage making it the perfect summer skincare option particularly for acne and discoloration prone skin. Clinical ingredients such as retinols, Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid, Emblica, Bearberry, Arbutin, vitamin C, and Niacinamide are effective at lightening hyperpigmentation. One of my favorite products incorporating many of these clinical ingredients are DermaBright Pads with HQ 2%. I have a Youtube video with more in depth information over Hyperpigmentation.
]]>1.) Why Do I Have So Many Black Heads Around My Nose?
Men have thicker skin than women with a higher concentration of pores and oil gland activity. The nose has the highest concentration with the chin, central cheeks and glabella as other areas prone to black heads. Our sebaceous glands are responsible for producing an oil like substance called sebum and when combined with dirt and dead skin cells this can clog the pores, ultimately leading to blackheads. The shape of the nose also plays a factor as it is usually curved, making it easier for oils and dirt to accumulate in this area. A great way to minimize blackheads around the nose is using Clarify Pads 3-4 times a week. They contain salicylic and glycolic acid to help break down the build up of sebum.
I have a detailed Youtube video dedicated to this topic below! (How To Shrink Your Pores)
2.) Is It Better To Wash My Face Before Or After I Shave?
Cleansing before shaving removes any impurities and softens the hairs for a seamless shave. It’s more important to prioritize post-shave skincare. The presence of facial hair can create a barrier that hinders the ability to effectively apply skincare products and allow for adequate absorption. It’s crucial to wash your face after shaving to thoroughly eliminate any excess product, loose hairs, dead skin cells, and impurities. It also helps soothe and refresh the skin, reducing the chances of irritation or inflammation typically associated with shaving. A post-shave cleansing step ensures that your skin is cleansed and primed for your products. I recommend Purify Cleanser for post-shave cleanses as it’s gentle and soothing on the skin yet effective at removing impurities.
3.) Do Men Need To Wear Sunscreen Too?
Yes. Always. This is a commonly asked question and the answer is always YES. By age 50 men have a considerably higher risk of developing melanoma in comparison to women. Specifically, the most common area for Melanoma in men is the back, so be sure to cover up and protect your skin. Men’s skin is more prone to oiliness so they tend to avoid applying lotions and creams. Using a lighter SPF lotion that’s water based or an SPF powder is a great option for sun protection. My male patients love the UV Clear Powder Brush because it’s so easy to apply. They surprisingly also love the way the Hydratint BB SPF44 makes their skin look. It’s a lightweight, water-based moisturizer that offers a light tint to help diminish imperfections.
4) What Is The Best Way To Get Rid Of ”Bacne” (Back Acne) And The Pigmentation It Leaves Behind?
Body acne is a form of folliculitis. It can also come up on the buttocks, chest, inner thighs, or shoulders. The buildup of sweat, bacteria, yeast, and oils can cause the pores in these areas to become clogged and infected resulting in red acne-like bumps often leaving behind a dark stain that lasts for months! Use a benzoyl peroxide wash in the shower, like Panoxyl or Cerave. Be sure to rinse it off as it can bleach clothing and fabrics. Apply a medicated spray like The One Spray to make it less favorable for yeast and bacteria to grow in addition to exfoliating and renewing skin cells. This also helps clean up any buildup in the pores as well as promotes cellular renewal to help fade the scars and discoloration body acne can leave behind.
Check out my youtube video on “How To Clear Body Acne” for more in-depth information.
5.) How Do I Get Rid Of Ingrown Hairs And Folliculitis?
Ingrown Hairs, also known as pseudofolliculitis, are typically caused from a close shave, causing the hair to get trapped under the surface of the skin as it grows back from below the skin’s surface. The area then becomes inflamed and irritated. Whereas folliculitis is when you get inflammation around the hair follicle from bacteria or a blockage in the pores leading to infection. Here are three tips helpful for you:
-Shave in the direction of the hair follicle to avoid the hairs curling under the skin’s surface and getting trapped in pores particularly if you have coarse or curly hair. Avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth.
-Wash with a medicated cleanser : one of my favorite medicated cleansers is Z-Bar from Amazon or the Exfoliating Cleanser as it has antibacterial and anti-yeast properties while also removing dead skin cells.
-Exfoliate Using Clarify Pads: sweeping the skin removes buildup from the outer skin layer, unclogs pores, and smooths skin texture. These medicated pads are formulated with clinical ingredients like salicylic and glycolic acid and very easy to use. They help with reducing ingrown hairs and unwanted microorganisms.
]]>Summer is the time for simple and relaxed skincare. You don’t need a 10 step skincare routine to achieve healthy glowing skin. In fact, using too many products can cause unwanted breakouts and reactions. My skincare philosophy is Cleanse, Treat, & Protect.
These 3 essential steps make your skincare routine easy to maintain without overwhelming your skin so you have more time and money to hangout with your friends and family.
2. Up Your Exfoliation
During the summer, heat, humidity, and increased sweating can lead to clogged pores and buildup of dead skin cells making your skin appear dull. By removing dead skin cells and removing dirt and impurities from pores, exfoliating helps to
While exfoliation is effective and beneficial, it’s important to listen to your skin. I recommend only exfoliating 1-2 times a week unless you’re using a very gentle exfoliant like Azelaic10 Serum or a cleanser like Exfoliating Cleanser with 2% salicylic and glycolic acid. Over exfoliation can disrupt your skin barrier leading to irritation and breakouts. For more, check out my YouTube on exfoliation below
3. SPF SPF SPF
Summer days mean longer days with more UV exposure at a higher UV index. Sun protection becomes more important than ever whether you’re going to the beach, a party, or a business event. Exfoliation also makes your skin more susceptible to sun damage. It’s so important to apply a broad-spectrum SPF30 or higher in the mornings. I recommend a comprehensive moisturizer formulated with a sunscreen. A tinted moisturizer with SPF can be a great way to simplify your routine by adding coverage allowing you to skip foundation. Tinted SPF moisturizers are also more effective at treating discoloration and hyperpigmentation as the iron oxide in them protects against HEV rays that come through windows and device screens. My personal favorite is Hydratint BB SPF44 formulated with hydrating ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid as opposed to oils leaving my skin with a filter like appearance. Don’t forget to reapply throughout the day especially when going outdoors. Using an SPF powder brush like the UV Clear Powder Brush makes for an easy practical reapplication method. Plus it soaks up oil and moisture. As we come to the end of Melanoma awareness month, I can’t stress enough how important this step is to your daily routine.
4. Body Odor
It may be embarrassing for some, but it’s a common concern for many! Due to higher temperatures and humidity, bacteria breaks down sweat, making body odor more smelly. An easy and effective way to combat this is by using a glycolic acid based product in the armpits or washing the area with a Benzoyl Peroxide wash in the shower.. My favorite products are Clarify Pads to sweep the area daily or a stronger option is The One Body Spray a few times a week.
5. Lighter Moisturizer
Hydration without heaviness: lighter moisturizers have a thinner consistency and are typically water-based or oil-free. They restore the moisture barrier without feeling heavy or greasy. This is particularly important during hot and humid weather. Oils mixed with moisture lead to wax clogging pores and contributing to build up in the skin. Heavy moisturizers can feel uncomfortable and they don’t allow the skin to breathe.
Remember that you should still be choosing products specific to your skin needs. If you have dry skin, a heavier moisturizer may still be suitable for you even in the summer. Always adapt your skincare routine accordingly.
6. Protect Your Lips
This is an important one guys. As a dermatologist, I see a lot skin cancer on the lower lip. You may not realize when you’re out at the beach or the pool with shiny lip gloss, you are actually magnifying UV rays from the sun. The lips are much thinner than skin elsewhere and more prone to sun damage. If you love to wear lip gloss in the summer, choose one formulated with SPF. Aquaphor has a simple SPF lip balm or the Pout Plump SPF30 is a great lip gloss to plump, protect, and perfect.
I’d love to hear what tips or hacks you use in the summer to help elevate your skincare routine, let me know in the blog comments below!
]]>1. Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a game changer in the skincare industry. Derived from the Babchi plant, this ingredient is an amazing companion to retinol. It can also be used as an alternative to retinol. Sensitive skin types can benefit from this natural ingredient as it offers similar benefits to retinol, but with less side effects. Although Bakuchiol is great for anti-aging, it can also be used for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it a great option for those with Acne. A few great bakuchiol products to think about incorporating into your skincare routine are:Lift and Renew: a clinically proven formula designed to renew skin cells, diminish lines, minimize pores, even out skin tone, improve skin hydration, and reduce discoloration for a brighter, youthful complexion.
Omorovicza’s Miracle Facial Oil: Nourishing yet lightweight facial oil to repair, smooth and hydrate.
Oskia’s Super16 Serum: A pro-collagen, anti-ageing power house of 16 super nutrients and bio-actives designed to boost collagen synthesis, lift, firm the skin and reduce fine lines.
Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Serum naturally derived retinol-alternative serum to help smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while sealing in hydration
2. Green Tea
Green tea is no rookie to the skincare community. As an antioxidant (antioxidants are known to neutralize free radicals that cause oxidative stress, preventing premature aging) and an anti-inflammatory, this ingredient helps combat the effects of sun exposure and pollution. Green tea has also been proven to reduce inflammation and redness, making it a great ingredient for sensitive, acne-prone, and rosacea-prone skin types. Aside from the amazing benefits it can offer topically, green tea can produce a calming effect; and we all know that reducing stress ultimately leads to less breakouts and healthier skin. So whether you want to enjoy a cup of green tea or incorporate it into your skincare routine, this ingredient is a natural and effective way to support your skin's overall health. A few of my go to great Green Tea products are:
Purify Cleanser: A powerful antioxidant cleanser with green tea polyphenols and cucumber extract great for nourishing and cleansing the skin effectively, removing makeup, oil, and impurities.
Youth to the People Superfood Cleanser: a great green juice cleanser with antioxidants from kale, spinach, and green tea.
3. Arbutin
One of my favorites! Arbutin is derived from bearberry plants and you guys know how much I love berries. Of course this natural ingredient has many antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, but Arbutin is mainly known for its lightening abilities. It works by inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin, the pigment that gives our skin its color. By blocking this enzyme, Arbutin can help fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone, resulting in a lighter, brighter complexion. So if you have hyperpigmentation but struggle with sensitive skin, this might be the ingredient for you. Here are some great products to try with Arbutin:
DermaBright Pads: 60 pads formulated to target skin concerns such as melasma, discoloration, age spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Azelaic10 Serum: a hydrating serum that soothes inflammation and gently exfoliates the skin. Formulated with natural plant-based brighteners to lighten discoloration, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and diminish signs of acne, rosacea, and melasma.
Urban SkinRX Super C Brightening Serum: secret weapon to brighten and improve the appearance of aging skin, dark spots and uneven skin tone.
Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strenth Niacinamide Discoloration Treatment: Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin and Pentapeptide.
4. Resveratrol
Resveratrol has gained popularity in the skincare community due to its potent age-defying effects. Derived from various plants, including grapes, berries, and peanuts, this special ingredient can help us protect our skin from free radical damage. It is believed to protect the skin from damage caused by UV radiation and environmental stressors. It’s also known to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which is why we love it so much. Typically found in serums and creams, resveratrol may be combined with other beneficial ingredients like vitamin C or hyaluronic acid to enhance its effects. If you’re looking for products to try with Resveratrol, I’d suggest:
Caudelie Resveratrol Lift lifts and reduces the look of wrinkles. Powered by patented resveratrol, hyaluronic acid and a vegan collagen alternative
Restore Moisturizer: The perfect restorative cream to deeply hydrate while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and protecting against free radical damage, leaving your skin nourished and glowing.
This might be an overly hyped ingredient, but I personally think of it as old faithful. It’s universal and can be beneficial for every skin type. Aloe Vera is a succulent plant that's been used for centuries for its medicinal and healing properties. It’s famous for soothing, cooling, and hydrating the skin. The gel-like substance it produces contains vitamins, amino acids, and polysaccharides, which contribute to its numerous health benefits. It acts as an anti-inflammatory making it ideal for those with Acne, Eczema, and Psoriasis, but the cooling and hydrating affect can be great for sunburns, dryness, or irritation. It can also be used in a smoothie for gut health, lowering blood sugar, or lowering cholesterol levels.
Soothe HC: specially formulated medicated cream, infused with aloe vera and hydrocortisone USP 1%, it effectively reduces and improves acne, eczema, and psoriasis, leaving your skin calm and comfortable. Great for treating sunburns!
The Ordinary Aloe 2% Solution: love this for all skin types. Great for improving texture and promoting a healthy skin barrier.
6. Mushrooms
Believe it or not, this is a top trending ingredient right now in skincare. Mushrooms are believed to offer several advantages when incorporated into skincare products. Some of these advantages include hydration and moisturization, brightening and evening skin tone, as well as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects. A few popular types of mushrooms in skincare include
Reishi Mushrooms: contain polysaccharides that may have anti-inflammatory effects
Shiitake Mushrooms: contain Kojic Acid, which has been shown to have skin-brightening properties.
Chaga Mushrooms: are rich in antioxidants and may help protect the skin from environmental damage, while cordyceps mushrooms may have hydrating effects.
My favorite fungi products are:
The Origin Megamushroom: formulated with reishi mushroom, chaga mushroom, licorice root, and hyaluronic acid, this naturally derived formula is great for immediate soothing hydration and calming redness and irritation.
DermaBright Pads: formulated with Arbutin and Kojic Acid, this product is specifically formulated to target skin concerns such as melasma, discoloration, age spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
]]>Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that occurs when the hair follicle becomes clogged with oil and dead skin cells. The different types of acne are
What Causes Acne?
Acne is complex and caused by a combination of multiple factors including:
How Can Acne Be Treated?
There are many different treatment options for acne. It’s important to remember that everyone’s skin is different and what works for one person may not necessarily work for every person. Any acne treatment will require patience and consistency. Give your skin time to change and heal, and don’t be afraid to seek help from a medical professional. The most effective way to treat your acne will depend on the type and severity.
5 Helpful Tips for Controlling Acne
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products for Acne Breakouts
Acne Regimen: Easy 3 step routine. Start with the Exfoliating Cleanser, next spot treat acne prone areas with the Zit Roller, and protect with the Intense Recovery Complex designed for acne prone inflamed skin.
Acne Regimen for Oily Skin: gently cleanse, exfoliate, and moisturize while reducing excess oil and targeting acne for a radiant, shine-free complexion.
Intense Recovery Complex: Lightweight moisturizer designed to strengthen and support the skin barrier for those struggling with acne, rosacea, or those on retinol and exfoliants.
]]>For more helpful tips on Rosacea, checkout my Youtube video!
What Are the Benefits of Using Azelaic Acid in Your Skin-Care Routine?
As a natural occurring acid found in grains, it has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties making it a very effective treatment for Acne and Rosacea. It’s a gentle exfoliant, reduces hyperpigmentation, gets along well with other skincare ingredients, and it’s considered pregnancy safe.
How Does Azelaic Acid Work?
Azelaic acid is the jack of all trades and master of none. That’s because it does a little of everything yet it’s very gentle and not the most powerful ingredient. It brightens the skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in the production of pigment, therefore it reduces hyperpigmentation. Secondly, it kills acne causing bacteria and reduces mites associated with Rosacea. It has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties making it effective in the treatment of skin conditions such as Acne or Rosacea and helps prevent breakouts. It’s also an antioxidant that can counter the effects of, or neutralize, free radicals.
Dr. Azi’s Product Recommendations:
A favorite amongst my patients, I love this product for those with rosacea or acne along with hyperpigmentation. It’s lightweight yet hydrating using a blend of Azelaic Acid 10%, Hyaluronic Acid, and Arbutin to even skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, treat breakouts, smooth texture, and calm redness. Gentle enough to use up to twice daily or pair with other skincare actives. A clean product that’s fragrance free without sensitizing ingredients.
Glytone Enhance Brightening Complex
Lightweight formula combining 12% Azelaic Acid with 3% Glycolic Acid making it a great option for those with hyperpigmentation. It also helps brighten skin tone and smooth skin texture. Given Azelaic acid and glycolic acid are considered safe at the concentrations in this product, it’s a good option in those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, but it’s important to first check with your doctor.
The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid 10%
This is an affordable option in a lightweight lotion formula to help reduce discoloration and breakouts, while brightening the skin’s complexion. It’s gentle enough to use twice daily or pair with other actives.
]]>What Is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells and excess oil from the skin to help reduce buildup, allowing fresh healthy skin cells to surface. Our skin exfoliates naturally but boosting this process can further improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, acne, clogged pores, tone, texture, discoloration, and dull skin. Not only does it leave the skin brighter, but it also enhances the penetration of skincare products allowing for makeup to go on smoother.
What Are The Different Types of Exfoliation?
There are two different types of exfoliation:
It is important to know that chemical exfoliants can also disrupt the skin barrier when overdone, used with the wrong products in your regimen, or if they are too strong for your skin type. They can increase sun sensitivity so be sure to apply a broad spectrum SPF30 or higher every morning. I recommend starting with a low concentration of any chemical exfoliant and gradually increasing the frequency and strength over time. Always do a patch test before fully applying any new products and make sure to choose an exfoliant based on your skin type. I’ll help you choose one below.
How To Exfoliate By Your Skin Type
Now that you know what exfoliation is, what the different types are, and how to be cautious when applying them, let's talk about what exfoliation is best for you based on your skin type. If you have:
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
Azelaic10 Serum: Serum designed to even skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, smooth texture, reduce breakouts, and calm redness
Exfoliating Cleanser: Cleanser for those with oily skin designed to deliver ultra refined glycolic and salicylic acid 2% to gently cleanse acne prone skin
Clarify Pads: 2% Salicylic Acid with Glycolic Acid exfoliating pads. Used to target clogged pores, uneven texture, dark spots, fine lines, acne, and breakouts
The One Spray: Medicated, clinical strength glycolic acid 10% and salicylic acid USP, 2% unclogs pores, exfoliates dead skin cells to smooth texture, unclogs pores to treat breakouts and ingrown hairs while improving hyperpigmentation
Restore Moisturizer: A restorative cream with Niacinamide, Green Tea Polyphenols, and Caffeine, that provides deep hydration with age-defying benefits to nourish dry skin back to healthy glowing skin
Purify Cleanser: Antioxidant calming cleanser with green-tea polyphenols to gently remove makeup and prevent buildup in pores, resulting in healthier, brighter skin. Part of double cleanse: apply to dry skin and work off makeup and debris/dirt
]]>What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is typically found in foods such as meats, dairy products, and fish. In skincare, it is an essential nutrient that helps support the function and structure of the skin barrier while also protecting against environmental damage. It is a popular ingredient in skincare not only because of its anti-aging benefits but its ability to target a variety of skin concerns such as
What Are the Benefits?
This ingredient has a domino effect of benefits. One of its most significant benefits is its ability to keep the skin barrier strong. Strengthening the skin barrier can prevent moisture loss and keep the skin hydrated, overall improving the tone and texture. It’s anti-inflammatory properties can be very useful for those with Acne or other skin conditions and its ability to reduce the production of sebum makes it ideal for those with oily skin.
Who Should Use It?
Those struggling with dry, dehydrated skin can benefit from this ingredient tremendously as it is great for locking moisture and repairing the skin barrier. If you are looking for a great anti-aging routine, incorporating comprehensive products with niacinamide can also be very beneficial. It is also a recommended daily supplement for those that have a lot of sun damage or a higher risk of skin cancer as it has been shown to have protective effects against UV sun damage.
I suggest using products with less than 5% niacinamide as greater concentrations do not offer more benefits and can potentially cause irritation such as redness and rebound oil production.
Generally, niacinamide is a safe ingredient for most skin types, including those that have sensitive skin. However, in higher concentrations, it can be irritating to some skin types and may lead to the worsening of acne.
Everyone's skin is different and I always suggest testing a small area of the skin before fully applying any potentially irritating products.
How Should I Use it?
Niacinamide can be found in a variety of products like moisturizers, serums, and toners. If you’re looking to treat a specific skin concern, serum form may be best for you. If you’re wanting to address any dehydration in the skin a moisturizer like Restore would be a great addition to your skincare routine. All of these types of products can be incorporated into your skincare routine morning or night. I believe it to pair well with other actives such as retinol or vitamin c rather than a stand alone product.
I have a youtube video dedicated to the use and benefits of moisturizers and serums that might help you when deciding on how to incorporate a new product into your routine. Watch it below!
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
1. Double Cleansing
This is a topic that is talked about a lot but not practiced enough. Take a little extra time to incorporate different cleansers that serve different functions. Clean skin is healthy skin. Double cleansing is important at night if you wear sunscreen or makeup to remove all the dirt, grime, and products applied throughout the day. My favorite combination is Micellar Water to remove any makeup on the surface and Purify Cleanser to really deep clean the skin and remove any excess debris left behind. This allows better penetration of your skincare products and optimizes cell renewal overnight. Check out my youtube video dedicated to this topic!
2. Incorporate A Mask
Elevate your skincare routine by adding a mask once or twice a week. Not only is this a relaxing form of self-care but masks can be substantial for targeting many different concerns such as
The perfect time to de-stress. Stress can cause heightened cortisol levels in the body, ultimately leading to breakouts, flare-ups, and inflammation. Take an hour to relax and decompress by having a professional treat your skin for you. Your Esthetician can help with skin-care maintenance by performing deep cleansing and hydrating treatments as well as incorporating LED, microcurrent, or radiofrequency therapies customized to your individual needs.
4. Preventative Skincare
Incorporate comprehensive anti-aging products into your routine to keep your skin feeling refreshed and looking younger.
Taking care of our bodies and making sure the necessities are being checked off are vital to overall skin health. Your everyday lifestyle can make or break your skincare routine. A few ways to maintain a healthy lifestyle include
Pro Tip: Lavender pillow mist and chamomile herbal tea before bed for calming
Pro Tip: Eat Berries. They are chock-full of powerful antioxidants, berries can help protect your complexion from aging, environmental aggressors and more.
Pro Tip: Instead of a booze-filled holiday drinks, try a wine spritzer with sparkling water and a splash of red wine. Red wine spritzers are a great way to satisfy a craving without overdoing it. Not to mention: Red wine is full of antioxidants and a splash of it can actually be great for your skin!
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
Self Love Bundle: Relieve stress and clarify your complexion with a full-sized Detox Mask, a custom applicator brush in our luxe, and a silk sleep mask in our limited-edition AziMD bag.
Hydratint BB Cream: Mineral based SPF44 that hydrates & protects the skin against damaging UV rays while providing coverage with a universal sheer tint.
L'Oreal Paris Pure Clay Face Mask with Charcoal: this mask has a creamy texture at a great price point and can be found at most drugstores.
Purify Cleanser: Antioxidant calming cleanser to gently remove makeup, prevent buildup in pores, and restore the skin.
]]>
Vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare. In fact, it’s so popular, that it’s been on the top 5 trending ingredients list for the last three years! You probably already have it incorporated into your skincare routine but if you’re still wondering why this staple has become the holy grail, how to use it, and ways to avoid any adverse reactions, keep reading.
I also have a detailed Youtube video dedicated to this topic, check it out below!
What is Vitamin C In Skincare?
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is an antioxidant that offers lightening, brightening, and tightening effects on the skin. Our skin needs vitamin C to make collagen; landing it a staple in anti-aging routines. It is unanimously known for promoting glowing skin but it also offers many other benefits, such as:
Who Should Use A Vitamin C?
If you’re looking to promote a healthy glow and add vibrancy to you skincare routine, vitamin C is the perfect ingredient to add. It is also a great preventative product and typically works well for those with combination, oily, or dry skin. Based on the benefits previously listed, Vitamin C can benefit those most affected by
Those using retinoids should use caution with vitamin C as it can be irritating to the skin. Sensitive skin types might also find Ascorbic Acid irritating and should test a small area before applying.
There are new analogs of Vitamin C on the market called Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, a very stable form of vitamin C. As an ingredient that is notorious for being unstable and irritating at high concentrations, THD is a new alternative for those who cannot tolerate Ascorbic Acid.
When Should I Use Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is best applied in the morning after you cleanse. It will help fight against free radical damage you might encounter throughout the day, while also brightening your complexion. My skincare philosophy is easy: cleanse, treat, protect. Because L-Ascorbic acid usually comes in a serum form it is applied during the treatment portion of your skincare routine, followed by an SPF. It can be applied at night if you’re not using other actives.
Although Vitamin C offers many benefits, it may not be suitable all the time or for every skin-type. Avoiding using in combination with these actives:
Combining Vitamin C with other actives can irritate the skin, ultimately causing redness and dryness; especially if you already have sensitive skin. It’s best to keep your skincare routine simple. If you’re using a retinol or any type of exfoliant, use it in the evenings and your Vitamin C in the mornings.
Dr.Azi’s Recommended Products:
For more tips this New Year, check out my Youtube Channel for weekly videos and podcasts for all of your skincare needs.
What Is The #1 Commitment To Make To Your Skin This New Year?
Be consistent. Skincare is a form of self-care. A lifelong healthy habit that delivers long-term results similar to healthy eating, exercising, and having regular checkups. Remember, healthy glowing skin doesn’t come overnight. It takes consistency and time to see positive changes.
Dr. Azi’s Top New Year Resolutions
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
Clarify Pads: 2% Salicylic Acid with Glycolic Acid exfoliating pads. Used to target clogged pores, uneven texture, dark spots, fine lines, acne, and breakouts
Restore Moisturizer: A restorative cream with Niacinamide, Green Tea Polyphenols, and Caffeine, that provides deep hydration with age-defying benefits to nourish dry skin back to healthy glowing skin.
Hydratint BB Cream: Mineral based tinted SPF44 that hydrates & protects the skin against damaging UV rays while providing coverage with a universal sheer tint. Great to add to your New Year glow!
Purify Cleanser: Antioxidant calming cleanser with green-tea polyphenols to gently remove makeup and prevent buildup in pores, resulting in healthier, brighter skin. Part of double cleanse: apply to dry skin and work off makeup and debris/dirt.
IllumiC with Ferulic Acid: Vitamin C serum used to firm, hydrate, brighten the skin. Powerful antioxidants protect and repair the skin from UV and environmental damage.
Check out our latest More Than A Pretty Face Podcast video, where Lacie and I give all the insight on Holiday Beauty Prep.
Let's dive into my 5 tips for your holiday glow-up this season!
1. Keep it clean & hydrate
Piling on make-up for a busy social season can clog your pores especially if you’re not cleansing properly. This can cause your pores to get compacted with makeup, dirt, and debris leading to stretched-out pores and breakouts. And if that’s not enough it can also make your complexion dull. Follow these guidelines to keep your skin clean and well-hydrated.
2. Exfoliate once weekly
Exfoliation has many important skin benefits. It renews our skin cells, prevents clogging, smooths texture for better makeup application, stimulates collagen/elastin, and allows our other skincare products to penetrate and work more effectively. But how do we exfoliate based on our skin types?
Sugar can trigger glycation in your body. Glycation occurs when sugar binds to other molecules in the body, such as proteins and lipids. These sugar by-products do two things. First, they stop your cells from functioning properly, and second they create free radicals, which further damage your skin cells causing your collagen and elastin to break down. Collagen and Elastin keep your skin looking tight and toned, so consuming a lot of sugar can reverse those effects. It can also make you more prone to damage from UV light, pollution, smoking, etc. So at your next holiday gathering try going for powerful antioxidants like berries to help protect your complexion from aging and environmental aggressors.
4. Hydrate in between alcoholic cocktails
You might recognize that after having a few drinks, you wake up the next morning with puffy eyes and a dull complexion. And if you have Rosacea you may see your symptoms worsen with more redness and breakouts. This is because alcohol breaks down to acetaldehyde in the blood, causing dehydration. Alcohol also generates free radicals that damage DNA leading to the breakdown of collagen fibers, causing skin inflammation, hyperpigmentation, and deeper wrinkles.
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Products:
For all of this information and more, check out my newest Youtube video!
How Are These Products Different?
Serum: is water based and intended to treat the skin. Serums are formulated with concentrated actives, with lightweight formulas to change the skin for the better. You only need a few drops meaning a little bit goes a long way. Serums are usually thin and absorbent, leaving little, if anything, remaining on the surface of the skin. Though they tend to be more expensive than other skincare products, they're full of potent ingredients geared towards anti-aging, skin brightening, hyperpigmentation, and treating skin conditions like acne or Rosacea.
Oil: Improves the overall appearance of the skin by trickling between skin cells. This softens the edges of the skin cells to give you some smoothing of the skin surface and a nice glow. However, they don’t lock in moisture or hydration.
Moisturizer: Uses a thicker formula to create a physical barrier that locks in hydration and prevents the skin from drying out. They help retain the function of the skin barrier and prevent water loss, keeping skin cells hydrated.
Important Things To Know About Serums
Although many serums do contain hyaluronic acid, it’s important to remember that they are not made for hydration. Serums absorb very quickly into the skin and are designed to deliver beneficial ingredients such as Azelaic Acid, Retinols, Niacinamide, Copper peptides, or Vitamin C.
Serums are best applied to damp skin and should be applied BEFORE a moisturizer. The general rule of thumb is to apply your products thinnest to thickest. This is because applying a moisturizer over a serum really drives the actives deeper into your skin and applying a moisturizer before a serum can create a barrier that the serum cannot penetrate.
My skin philosophy is simple: Cleanse, Serum, and Protect. Your serum is the investment piece designed to change your skin for the better and treat your skin concerns. They should be comprehensive with high quality science backed ingredients. I developed this simple routine after years of treating patients who were overwhelmed with choosing products and didn’t know how to start a skincare routine. Whether it’s anti-aging, sensitive skin, or a day and night routine, our skincare bundles take the guesswork out and incorporate serums designed for various skin conditions. If you’re interested in a simple skincare routine that’s already set up for you, our bundles are listed below.
Most people think using a moisturizer is just to prevent dry skin, but moisturizers do so much more than this. They can actually be used to protect the skin barrier as well.
When looking at a condition like Acne, there is a common misconception that moisturizers clog the pores. Acne can be caused by many different things.. And yes, too much oil is one of those contributing factors but having an impaired skin barrier plays a huge role. Acne products tend to dry out the skin which in turn weakens the function of the skin barrier, and a lot of times this can lead to worsening of acne. Rosacea is another condition in which the skin barrier is impaired. Moisturizers can improve these conditions by repairing the skin barrier. Make sure to use a moisturizer that is free of fragrance, parabens, and sulfates.
The last thing to note about moisturizers is that moisturizing creams contain oils, emollients, and humectants that attract water. They also contain occlusives that seal everything in and form that protective barrier. Even the ones that say oil-free, contain a synthetic oil like silicone that feels more lightweight. These may be more pleasing to those that don’t like the feel of oil.
Important Things To Know About Oils
One important thing to remember when using oils is that they do not hydrate the skin. Natural Oils are really there to nourish the skin and not necessarily to hydrate the skin. They don’t support the skin barrier like moisturizers. That’s why creams or moisturizers are used to add hydration and strengthen the skin barrier offering greater protection than oils.
Oils also do not help regulate oil. The oil production in your glands is determined by your hormones and skin type.
Oils are not necessarily pure like Argon or Jojoba oil as there’s a lack of consistency in the quality.. Many of them claim to be all natural without preservatives. The problem with this is, because they lack preservatives, they degrade quickly causing them to change composition and possibly cause irritation.
Dr. Azi’s Comprehensive Skincare Bundle Recommendations:
Does Eczema appear differently in children?
In children, eczema, known as Atopic Dermatitis, is seen in flexural surfaces like the skin fold of joints like where the elbow or knee bends as well as the cheeks, neck with overall skin dryness. Often times children outgrow their atopic dermatitis by the time they reach puberty. In adults eczema presents differently as hand dermatitis or contact dermatitis or we may see conditions like seborrheic dermatitis where a rash develops in the T-zone. The microbiome plays a big role in eczema which may explain the different locations and presentations in various age groups.
How is it different than just "dry skin"?
Eczema is an inflammatory process where dry skin is a trigger. They both can appear similar on the surface, but dry skin is relieved with moisturizers or environmental changes whereas eczema often requires medicated creams and treatments. In eczema there’s disruption of the skin barrier with inflammation that can cause oozing, crusting putting one at risk of secondary infections.
It’s important to practice healthy skincare habits, moisturize the skin regularly particularly in more dry climates, stay away from possible allergens like fragrance, dyes, and harsh chemicals.
What are the biggest mistakes people tend to make?
Not applying moisturizers to damp skin. The two main triggers are dry skin and skin barrier disruption so this really helps restore skin hydration and strengthen the skin barrier.
Dr. Azi’s Product Recommendations for Eczema
Soothe HC: An anti-inflammatory medicated cream with aloe vera and hydrocortisone designed to improve irritation, rashes, itchiness, and skin inflammation.
Cerave Healing Ointment: Protects and hydrates skin to help recover from cracked or extremely dry skin.
Intense Recovery Complex: Four essential Ceramide Complex restores and strengthens skin barrier function and maintains hydration. Clinically formulated to reduce inflammation and redness.
Soothe Cleanser: A sulfate-free Cleanser to gently cleanse, hydrate, and reduce irritation without over-drying it.
]]>The seasonal transition from summer to fall can be brutal on the skin. It’s not just about the changes that you might see like red breakouts and flaky, cracked skin, but also the discomfort you may feel, such as burning, itching, and tingling during the cooler months. Dryer weather draws moisture right out of the skin causing many of these symptoms. Cooler weather may strip the skin’s protective barrier, creating breaks in the outer layer that allows water to escape and irritants to settle into the skin.
5 helpful tips to Transition your Skincare
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Fall Skincare:
What are some tips/advice people should consider when shopping for anti-aging skincare?
Look for comprehensive products with multiple beneficial actives and functions to reduce the number of products in your regimen. Using too many products in a regimen especially with powerful ingredients like retinols or exfoliants can make your skin more sensitive and reactive.
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Key Morning Products
Dr. Azi’s Recommended Key Night Products
Charcoal is great for oily skin, acne prone skin, and can even be beneficial for combination skin types. It acts as a magnet for drawing out build up, debris, and impurities while also absorbing excess oil from the skin. This aids in reducing breakouts, redness, and inflammation seen in patients with Rosacea or Acne.
Skin Types & Charcoal
Oily skin types and those with acne prone skin benefit the most from using charcoal masks. Combining charcoal with Clay makes the mask more powerful at drawing out excess oil, toxins, and debris from the skin. Dry skin types or those with sensitive skin may find it irritating if used too often so limit its use to once weekly if you are on the dry side.
Charcoal versus Micellar Cleansers
Though they work differently, they both help absorb excess oil and impurities while exfoliating the skin. Charcoal masks can be a bit more powerful and hence more drying especially in those with sensitive skin types. Comparatively, micellar cleansers are a gentle option for sensitive skin types as they are morehydrating.
Dr.Azi’s Top 5 Recommended Charcoal Masks
Shea butter is highly concentrated in fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic, and palmitic acids, that nourish and boost skin moisture. They also help restore and strengthen the skin barrier. Shea butter is also rich in antioxidants such as Vitamin A and E to repair free radical damage with aging.
Isn’t shea butter comedogenic?
Many people worry about it clogging pores because essentially it’s an oil. However, it contains high levels of linoleic and oleic acid that balance each other and allow the shea butter to absorb easily without leaving the skin oily. On the comedogenic scale it’s between a 0-2 making it less likely to clog pores and cause breakouts. It also depends on how it’s formulated, what other products someone is using, and certainly climate plays a role.
Dr. Azi’s Shea Butter Recommendations:
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra - Lightweight texture, hydrating and soothing on the skin.
Burt's Bees Shea Butter Hand Repair Cream - Rich nourishing hand cream for dry cracked hands, cuticles, and even lips. I like using this right before bed and rub into my cuticles as well.
Glossier Priming Moisturizer - Moisturizing formula to apply under make up and minimize the "cakiness" effect.
Farmacy Honey Halo Ultra-Hydrating Ceramide Moisturizer - Rich heavy nourishing cream perfect to apply overnight to hydrate dull dry skin.
]]>Dr. Azi’s Blackheads Face Masks Recommendations:
Dr. Azi tip: It’s best to use a product daily to treat and prevent blackheads. She recommends using masks 1-3x a week.
What are the main areas of the body affected the most by body odor?
Most common areas affected are the armpits, feet, groin, genitals, pubic area, behind the ears.
What is glycolic acid in skincare?
Glycolic acid is a alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that works by breaking the bonds between the outer layer of skin cells, including the dead skin cells, exfoliating them off, boosting cell renewal resulting in a peeling effect that leaves the skin smoother. Glycolic acid is also antibacterial and helps reduce hyperpigmentation.
So, how is glycolic acid helpful in reducing body odor?
Sweat itself is virtually odorless, it's the rapid growth of bacteria that break down the sweat into acids causing an unpleasant smell. Since Glycolic acid is anti-bacterial it helps reduce body odor. It also exfoliates off dead skin cells that contribute to greater bacterial build up. Additionally, it does have a smoothing effect and can reduce breakouts and razor bumps. I'm hesitant in recommending it for the delicate under arm skin as it can cause slight irritation. Formulas with low concentrations or when used in a cleanser that you leave on for a few minutes and then rinse off is the safest option.
Can glycolic acid be considered a deodorant?
Glycolic acid is not a deodorant, it’s an exfoliant. It does nothing to reduce sweat or absorb sweat. Deodorants without an antiperspirant just use fragrance to mask the body odor, not without actually treating the cause of it which is due to the bacteria mixing with the sweat. Antiperspirants in deodorants contain aluminum-based compounds that temporarily block sweat pores reducing the amount of perspiration that reaches the skin.
Does glycolic acid help fight discoloration?
Dark underarms can be due to skin buildup. By removing build up of dead skin cells that contribute to dark underarms it can help brighten hyperpigmentation. The problem is applying glycolic acid to the delicate and sensitive underarm skin can cause irritation especially in higher concentrations leading to dark underarms, the problem you were hoping to treat. It can be a catch 22. The irritation then worsens hyperpigmentation especially in darker skin tones. You also have to be cautious with shaving or waxing which also exfoliates the skin. Over exfoliation damages the skin barrier leading to inflammation and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation again particularly in darker skin tones.
How To Incorporate Glycolic Acid Into Your Routine
Start low and go slow. At first apply a lower concentration 5-7% every other day and slowly increase it daily. Cream formulation may be better tolerated than gels or liquid toners. Even better, cleansing the area with it is the safest way to go. Some may tolerate twice daily applications at lower glycolic concentrations (2-5%). An alternative method for using glycolic acid is short contact therapy where the acid is applied to the skin like a mask. Apply it, leave it on for 3-5 min then rinse it off. Start low and go slow as it can cause irritation applied to the more delicate under arm skin.
Glycolic Acid Alternatives
A more gentle alternative to glycolic acid is Lactic acid as it's an exfoliant, better tolerated, and it's also antibacterial.
An alternative method for using either glycolic or lactic acid is short contact therapy where the acid is applied to the skin like a mask. Apply it, leave it on for 3-5 min then rinse it off.
Who should be cautious with Glycolic Acid?
Sensitive skin types should be really cautious as it can cause irritation in the delicate under arm skin. Be cautious in darker skin tones due to risk of irritation resulting in post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Dr. Azi’s Glycolic Acid Recommendations:
Gray hair is really hair with less melanin, which gives color to the skin and hair. With aging, there’s a gradual decline in the number of stem cells that mature to become melanin-producing cells. These cells may wear out, become damaged, or lose the support systems meant to keep them working. Genes are also a factor, since they help control melanin production. With fewer pigment cells, the strand of hair doesn’t have as much melanin becoming a transparent color like gray, silver, or white.
Can I reverse gray hair?
Possibly in the future as new studies show by stimulating stem cells back into action, pigment producing cells can be revitalized to reverse gray hairs. A recent study published in Cell Biology created a computer model of how graying happens with age and in response to stress in those under the age of 40. The results showed reversal of graying in 35 year olds in the early stages of graying, once the stress was significantly reduced. More research and data are needed to explore the mechanism behind the repigmentation, but this reverse gray phenomenon is unlikely in those over 40.
What are other factors that cause gray hair, besides aging?
Aside from natural aging, other reasons for gray hair are smoking, stress, vitamin B12 deficiency, thyroid disease, and autoimmune skin conditions like alopecia aerate or vitiligo where the immune cells destroy pigment producing cells or hair follicles.
]]>What is retinol?
Retinols are Vitamin A derivatives that are considered more like antioxidants and less like exfoliants. They renew our skin cells, protect our collagen by fighting off free radicals. Additionally, they stimulate new collagen and elastin therefore plumping up our deeper skin (dermis) to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and pores. They have a role in talking to cells and encouraging healthier, youthful cells to go through the skin layer hence renewing our skin. Many people think retinol thins the skin, but it actually thickens the dermis, the deeper skin layer. Not only does it improve lines and wrinkles it also improves hyperpigmentation, treats acne, softens rough patches, enhances circulation, and improves overall skin texture and tone.
The Benefits Of The Retinol Sandwich Hack
Sandwiching retinols lessens the intensity hence the irritation since it reduces the amount absorbed. The moisturizer applied before the retinol acts a barrier and reduces the absorption.
The Disadvantages Of The Retinol Sandwich Hack
You may not be getting as much absorption therefore as much benefit. This truly depends on the type of moisturize. Heavier creams will reduce the absorption much more than lighter gel based moisturizer.
Is the retinol sandwich hack worth trying?
It depends on how much time you allow between applying the moisturizer and the retinol. If you are waiting some period of time, like greater than one hour then you may not be decreasing its efficacy but if you are applying it right after moisturizing then the absorption will be minimized due to the moisturizer blocking the retinol absorption. Dr. Azi recommends that patients break up their night time routine into two parts: early evening (5-7pm) cleanse and moisturizer. Then later in the night 9-11pm apply the retinol. This way you are not affecting the efficacy.
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